Hidden in the shadow of the imposing Sigiriya Rock Fortress lies Hiriwadunna—a quiet, verdant village that feels remarkably untouched by time. While thousands flock to the nearby “Cultural Triangle” to see ancient ruins, Hiriwadunna offers a different kind of heritage: the living, breathing culture of rural Sri Lanka.
For travelers seeking an authentic break from the tourist trail, a visit to this hamlet near Habarana is less about sightseeing and more about slowing down to the rhythm of the village.
The Hiriwadunna Village Trek
The primary way to experience the area is through a “Village Trek.” Unlike the strenuous climbs of Sigiriya or Pidurangala, this is a gentle immersion into daily life, typically split into three distinct modes of transport.
1. The Bullock Cart Ride
The journey usually begins on a dusty, red-earth track aboard a traditional bullock cart. For centuries, these wooden carts were the main mode of transport for goods and people across the island. As the bulls trundle through patches of jungle and green paddy fields, the silence is broken only by the rhythmic wooden bells and the call of the driver. It is a nostalgic entry into a world where agriculture dictates the schedule, not the clock.
2. The Catamaran Safari
The path eventually leads to the edge of the Hiriwadunna Lake, a man-made reservoir covered in lotus blossoms and water lilies. Here, you transfer to a traditional catamaran (oruwa). These are not white-water rafts but narrow, stable canoes stabilized by a wooden outrigger.
As you glide across the water, the view is spectacular. On a clear day, you can see the distinct silhouette of the Sigiriya Lion Rock rising in the distance—a perfect photography backdrop. The lake is a haven for wildlife; keep an eye out for cormorants drying their wings, kingfishers darting for prey, and perhaps a water monitor lizard sunbathing on a log.
3. The Village Farmhouse
The boat docks on the far shore, where you walk through a “Chena” cultivation—a traditional form of slash-and-burn farming (though now more settled). You will likely see farmers tending to crops of corn, finger millet, pumpkins, and chilies.
The highlight for many is the visit to a humble wattle-and-daub village house. Here, hospitality is warm and genuine. You might climb a treehouse (used by farmers to watch for wild elephants at night) or simply sit on a woven mat while a local family welcomes you.
A Culinary Masterclass
No visit to Hiriwadunna is complete without tasting the food. This is widely considered one of the most authentic culinary experiences in Sri Lanka.
- The Demonstration: In a rustic kitchen with an open wood-fire stove, village women demonstrate how to grind fresh coconut sambol using a heavy stone mortar and pestle. You can often try your hand at grinding the millet or scraping the coconut.
- The Lunch: The meal is served on a fresh lotus leaf instead of a plate. Expect a spread of red rice, lake fish curry, dhal (lentils), and fried lake fish, all seasoned with spices grown just meters away. The smoky flavor imparted by the clay pots and firewood makes this simple meal unforgettable.
Practical Information for Travelers
- Best Time to Visit: Hiriwadunna is in Sri Lanka’s “Dry Zone.” The best weather is generally from January to April and July to September. Avoid the heavy monsoon rains that usually arrive between October and December, which can make the village tracks muddy and the lake ride difficult.
- What to Wear: Dress modestly and comfortably. Lightweight cotton clothing is best. You will be taking off your shoes when entering the village house, so slip-ons are convenient.
- Essentials: Bring insect repellent (for the jungle trek), sunblock, and a hat.
- Getting There: Hiriwadunna is located just a few kilometers from Habarana. Most hotels in Sigiriya, Dambulla, or Habarana can arrange a tuk-tuk or jeep transfer to the trek starting point.
Why Go?
Hiriwadunna is the antidote to “temple fatigue.” It bridges the gap between the luxury of your hotel and the reality of the Sri Lankan countryside. It is a place to watch butterflies dance over the water, smell the woodsmoke of a village kitchen, and understand that the true wealth of Sri Lanka lies not just in its ancient kings, but in its enduring village spirit.